First things first. STOP GETTING ACRYLICS!!
Now that we've got that cleared up... Just know that no matter what you do, it's going to take time to take your nails from brittle and damaged to happy and healthy. Furthermore, some people just can't get those rock hard yet flexible and perfectly shaped nails that elicit envy... sorry, honesty here. BUT that doesn't mean you can't start taking steps to get your nails to their best possible state. (And be the envy of someone out there whose nails need help!) So don't give up! Have patience!
WHY DO MY NAILS BREAK?
Well, kitten, ask yourself this... do you open cans, pick at stuff stuck on the counter or poke holes in tape to open boxes with your nails? Do you use harsh cleaners like Lysol or bleach or any sort of powdered cleanser without gloves? Do you go without any polish at all on a regular basis? Not even a clear base coat? Do you overuse strengthening nail polish? Do you eat an unbalanced diet and lack essential vitamins in your body? Do your hands (and consequentially your nails) spend a prolonged amount of time in water due to dishes, baths or swimming?
If you answered "yes" to any of these, you should rethink how you're treating your nails. All of these things are bad for your nails. Avoiding damage is the first step to healthy growth.
~ Use gloves when cleaning or gardening.
~ Nails are friends, not tools.
~ Polish gives you a protective layer. Wearing polish is actually beneficial to nail growth.
~ Unless its strengthening polish... Using it occasionally is great but using it too often can actually harden your nails and remove necessary flexibility in the nail to bend instead of break in case of impact.
~ You should eat a balanced diet for a lot of reasons, but your nails are a body byproduct and will benefit, too.
~Don't forget to replenish what excessive moisture removes! Which brings me to...
HOW DO I KEEP MY NAIL BEDS HAPPY?
Well, I'm glad you asked! Mama's little secret. Cuticle oil. And more cuticle oil. In my opinion, not all cuticle oil is created equally. When looking for a winner, you should be looking for oils with pure, simple ingredients. My current favorite is made by Bliss Polish and is made of Argon Oil, Vitamin E Oil and whatever scented oil she has chosen for the month. This month's (August 2015) smelly good is Eucalyptus Spearmint. Not your cup of tea? Well wait for September and there will be another choice. She also does sales twice a year to offer up a variety of choices... but that's for another blog.
I used to only use cuticle oil every once in a while. I never really knew the effects it had. I mean, how could it really help... right? But here's the thing. Your nails grow from your nail beds. And just like everything else, when you build a good foundation, you can build bigger and better and stronger. So let's see. When to use cuticle oil:
~ After a shower/bath/swimming/washing dishes
~ After washing hands (at least a couple times a day)
~ Before bed
~ Every polish change
~ Before any activity that dries your skin out
~ After any activity that dries your skin out
~ When you want your fingers to smell like whatever scent you've chosen
Basically, a little here, a little there, a little everywhere. It doesn't take much (even though it sounds like a lot) but if your nails are damaged, this is especially important to prevent chips, cracks and hangnails. Plus, your skin will thank you.
LET'S TALK ABOUT CUTTING AND FILING.
I know that a lot of people use fingernail clippers to cut their nails. I hope you aren't one of those after reading this. To clarify, I'm not entirely against the use of clippers... I use them on my big toes about once every 6 weeks. But my fingernails? Maybe - MAYBE - once every 2 or so years and that's because I've gone and done all of those don't's from the beginning and broken off enough nails that it's wise to just start over. But for general purposes PUT DOWN THE CLIPPERS.
There's really never a good reason to CUT your fingernails. See, a couple things happen when you cut your nails. Typically, your nails bend as you cut halfway into the width of the nail. You put undue pressure on the layers of your nail and it can split or crack. If your nails are already weak, or worse, too hard from using nail hardeners, you can accidentally crack your nail very easily. To avoid this, filing is your friend.
What kind of file, you ask? Well, I personally say don't get sucked in by the 4-in-1 flat buffer files. They don't do a terrible job, but they don't do a great job, either. A buffer block is a much better alternative because you have a larger surface while having a little give in the block. My go to for my natural nails are the pink 100/180 grit and the yellow fine grit, both of which are super cheap (around $1) and can be found at Sally Beauty. Emory boards are great for touch ups and it's always nice to have one in your purse or car or whatever in case you snag a nail somewhere.
How should you file? To keep your nails at a desired length, it's good to file them regularly. I touch mine up every 3-4 days or once a week at the least. My nails grow fast and I change my polish often so a good rule of thumb for me is to file with every polish change. When filing, you SHOULD file in one direction. I have a hard time doing that, but I'd be in the wrong not to tell you that. Start with the lower, coarser grit file and then smooth the edges with the finer file. File the nail depending on the shape you want your nails to be. Squoval tends to be the strongest, resisting breakage due to the flattened tip but semi-rounded edges. When trying to grow your nails out, don't file the sides in any more than needed to get them smooth. Filing the sides too much can lead to hangnails and cracks when your nail grows out.
Finally, when filing, I like to take a fine grit (not that "shine" buffer, that's too fine) and lightly buff the surface of my nail. Not a lot, just enough to rough up the surface a hair. This does a couple of things. It removes any residue and smooths ridges, but it also allows for a stronger bond for polish to grip. This is especially helpful if you find you have trouble getting nail polish to stay on your nails.
AND TO WRAP THIS BABY UP...
The last thing I'm going to say in this segment is that you should always wear some sort of protective barrier on your nails. Even if it's just a clear base coat. It's a myth that nails need to "breathe". They're technically dead protein once they leave the cuticle soooooooo what do they need air for? Seriously, though. Think of it like a case for your phone. If you knock your nail against a counter or grab a door handle askew, in helps to have a little something giving an added layer of strength. It also helps keep those pesky chemicals and water off your precious digits.
So after you've buffed and filed, paint on a coat. (But remember, don't always use strengthening polish because it can harden your nails to the point of breaking - not bending - and be counterproductive.) My personal favorite clear coat is Orly Top 2 Bottom. It's a good all around "does it all" product for those of you who need somewhere to start.
And for heaven's sake... don't forget to finish with cuticle oil.
